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Park City Utah Plumber and Central Air

Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air offers our plumbing, heating, and central air services to residents of Park City Utah (84060). We offer affordable solutions for plumbing, furnace, and central air repairs and installations. We only install quality plumbing and HVAC products. Our experienced technicians are friendly, and we don't use high-pressure sales tactics. Every job is done with integrity and honesty and we strive to leave every customer a happy customer.

Call today to schedule a furnace or central air repair, water heater repair or installation, plumbing remodels, HVAC installation, and more. When things are not working properly you need a professional from a company you can trust. Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air would like to be that company for you. We have been in business since 2004 and have built a solid reputation for quality service. Our techs have years of experience and receive regular training. Please check out our Google and HomeAdvisor reviews.

Water heater in Park City UT
Park City UT Plumber
Park City UT plumbing

Plumbers are Superheros! Plumbers are who you call when your water heater needs repair, your garbage disposal is acting up, your sump pump is clogged, the nonstop running toilet you tried to fix yourself doesn’t work, pesky leaking faucet or a whole heap of nasties you don’t want to deal with. So really, plumbers are superheroes! 
Plumbing services include
Bathroom Plumbing:
Drain cleaning
Faucet repair and installation
Leak repair
Shower repair
Sink repair
Bathroom water pipe relocation
Clogged toilet repair
Running toilet repair
Re-piping
Shower head repair and replacement
Kitchen Plumbing:
Dishwasher repair and installation
Faucet repair and installation
Garbage disposal repair and installation
Blocked drain clearing
Re-piping
Water supply lines repair and installation
Reverse Osmosis repair and installation
Refrigerator ice and water lines
Outdoor Plumbing:
Pool plumbing
Irrigation system repair and installation (not sprinklers)
Frozen pipe repair
Gas supply fitting
Water main repairs
Spigot head replacement & repairs
Other Services:
Water heater repairs and replacement
Tankless water heater installation and repair
Sewer repair, cleaning and replacement
Sump pumps repair, cleaning and replacement
Camera inspection
High-power water jetting
Backflow prevention & testing
Floor drain repair and installation
Water saving equipment installation
Leak detection services
Being a plumber is physically and emotionally demanding. The work itself is heavily driven by emergency plumbing needs, and big remodeling projects. Consequently, that’s a factor as to why people choose to become plumbers and why others will choose a different career path. Plumbing is very demanding work and quite rewarding as well. Feeling like you have served someone and being of good use, is quite rewarding as being the go-to in an emergency. Saving the day by completing the job or fixing the problem to your customers satisfaction is what it’s all about.

Call for price on items we offer.  Free Quotes and excellent pricing on repairs. Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air 801-294-2757 serving the greater Salt Lake area, Draper, Lehi, Bountiful, Woods Cross, Kaysville, Layton, Syracuse, South Ogden, Magna and everything in between

DIY AC Inspection

1. Turn the thermostat to cool and turn it down about 10 degrees (remember to bring back up)
2. Listen for the fan blower to come on, outside check the unit, fan should blow warm on the top.
3. Inspect the motor outside, see if it’s been replaced before
4. Two refrigerant lines go to the home, inspect the insulated, bigger refrigerant line, feel it, cold is good, frozen is bad, warm is bad
5. Clean the exterior, if there is a build-up of leaves, debris, dust
6. Turn off the thermostat and hose rinse the whole unit off
7. Turn the thermostat back on after cleaning
8. Test vents for air flow – feel air, test with a small string or paper taped to a vent
9. Test temperature coming out of vent – should be 20* colder than the home
10. In the furnace room check the coil – is it new – repaired – or old?
11. Inspect for water damage, and leakage
12. Two refrigerant lines go into it, inspect the insulated, bigger refrigerant line, feel it, cold is good, frozen is bad, warm is bad
13. Turn off the furnace at the top switch on the unit
14. Open the blower fan door
15. With a flashlight look inside, feel for buildup on fan, dust causes slacking airflow
16. Let the Pros handle cleaning inside furnace fan
17. Call Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air 801-294-2757

Do It Yourself AC Efficiency Inspection

DIY AC Inspection checks homeowners can do to see if their central air system is working as efficiently as possible. 

Step by step instructions on ruling out AC problems caused by exterior forces, other HVAC companies or age.

If you feel like your central air system isn’t working as efficiently as it should, you can do your own DIY AC Inspection, there are a few simple checks that you as a homeowner can do.

The first thing that you should do is turn the thermostat to cool and turn it down about 10 degrees. You should hear the blower fan on your furnace come on shortly after. Take a walk outside and look at your condenser. You should see the fan turning and hear the low hum of the compressor. Put your hand over the top of the air conditioner. The air should be warm. Visually inspect the fan motor to see if it has been replaced before. When a fan motor or capacitor has been replaced it is often a sign that something else is off with your air conditioner. The fan and compressor may be overworking. Fan motors that are not OEM (replacement parts from the manufacturer) may not spin at the correct RPM and can hold the fan blade in a different spot than what was originally designed. These deviations can cause hard to detect problems on your central air.

While outside, you will see two refrigerant lines. The large one is insulated, pull back the insulation on the fat pipe where the refrigerant line connects to the air conditioner.

The pipe should feel cold like a soda can in the fridge. After a few minutes, it would be normal to see condensation on this refrigerant line. Frost or ice is not normal, do not put your hand on the line at this time, this indicates a problem. Inspect at the coil (the main outer cage like a radiator) and see if it is covered in debris including leaves, cottonwood, webs, dust etc. Make sure to check out the area between the house and the unit as this space gets the most plugged up, without realizing it, debris could be the biggest concern.  Turn the unit off by turning the thermostat to off position, spray with a hose with a nozzle sprayer to clear off buildup. Remember to turn the unit back on after cleaning it.

Inside, during your DIY AC Inspection, check the vents for proper air flow.  Use a small string or a piece of paper to compare the airflow at different spots in your home. A temperature probe ($30) or thermometer is handy to check the coolness of the air. Laser temperature probes such as the one shown are great for this. The air should be 20 degrees colder than the air going in at the return air (the big grills).

   

Next, go to your furnace room, check your furnace and coil. Does it look like the coil and the furnace were installed at the same time? Inspect the craftsmanship of the metal work and drain lines. Sloppy work is an indicator of other potential issues. Check for signs of water leakage on the floor and underneath the furnace. Water spilling out from underneath the coil is not normal and in any of these areas is not normal. Look at the big refrigerant line (on the coil – main outer cage- of the furnace at the top).  Just like the outside unit, this pipe should feel cold and should not have ice or frost on it. Turn the switch off at the furnace and open the blower door (typically bottom door). With a flashlight look at the squirrel cage (blower fan). If you dare carefully run your finger along one of the fan blades white glove test see how bad the buildup is, anything over 1/8 inch reduces air flow. They should be clean and free of debris. Our technicians should do the dirty work.

  

Proper Sizing

 

If you suspect that your central air is undersized for the AC unit already installed, there are somethings that you, as a homeowner, can check. Observe your home from the outside. Look for high sun exposure on the South and West sides of your home. Large trees will help to shade your home from the heat of the sun. Contemplate planting shade trees one or more if possible. If you have more than one story above ground this will increase your heat load. Older homes may have poor insulation. Large windows will let in and trap heat. High vaulted ceilings connected to upstairs areas can be an issue.

Take a rough measurement of the square footage of all above-ground floors, don’t include your garage and basement. Measure the width and length of your home multiply those numbers. A rough guide is 1 ton for every 500 square feet. Central air systems that are undersized or oversized will not work properly. You can find the size of your air conditioner by looking at the model number, usually under the main panel compartment. You should see one of the following numbers:

                24 = 2 tons

                30 = 2.5 tons

                36 = 3 tons

                42 = 3.5 tons

                48 = 4 tons

                60 = 5 tons

The ductwork is often an overlooked part of your HVAC system however it is one of the most crucial considerations. Central air systems are designed for 400 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) per ton. If you have a 3-ton system your ductwork should be able to support 1200 CFM. Most homes have 6” round metal ducts going to the vents. These are designed to provide 85 CFM per vent. Count your vents and don’t include the basement ones. You should have a sufficient number of vents for your central air system.

The return air is where the air circulates back into the central air system. These are usually the bigger grills. Measure and record the dimensions of all of them and compare with the sizing chart below to get an idea of if you need more return air. Next, go into the furnace room and measure the return air drop(s). This is the vertical ductwork that connects to the blower compartment of your furnace. Refer to the sizing chart to see if it’s sufficient. 5 ton systems should have a base that allows the air to enter the furnace from the bottom or have return air ducts on both sides entering the blower compartment.

If you suspect that your central air system has some issues or isn’t sized properly contact the professionals at Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air 802-294-2757. Our technicians have the newest tools of the trade and know how to use them. They are experts at diagnosing problems that may not be apparent to the naked eye.

Do It Yourself AC Efficiency Inspection

DIY AC Inspection checks homeowners can do to see if their central air system is working as efficiently as possible. 

Step by step instructions on ruling out AC problems caused by exterior forces, other HVAC companies or age.

If you feel like your central air system isn’t working as efficiently as it should, you can do your own DIY AC Inspection, there are a few simple checks that you as a homeowner can do.

The first thing that you should do is turn the thermostat to cool and turn it down about 10 degrees. You should hear the blower fan on your furnace come on shortly after. Take a walk outside and look at your condenser. You should see the fan turning and hear the low hum of the compressor. Put your hand over the top of the air conditioner. The air should be warm. Visually inspect the fan motor to see if it has been replaced before. When a fan motor or capacitor has been replaced it is often a sign that something else is off with your air conditioner. The fan and compressor may be overworking. Fan motors that are not OEM (replacement parts from the manufacturer) may not spin at the correct RPM and can hold the fan blade in a different spot than what was originally designed. These deviations can cause hard to detect problems on your central air.

While outside, you will see two refrigerant lines. The large one is insulated, pull back the insulation on the fat pipe where the refrigerant line connects to the air conditioner.

The pipe should feel cold like a soda can in the fridge. After a few minutes, it would be normal to see condensation on this refrigerant line. Frost or ice is not normal, do not put your hand on the line at this time, this indicates a problem. Inspect at the coil (the main outer cage like a radiator) and see if it is covered in debris including leaves, cottonwood, webs, dust etc. Make sure to check out the area between the house and the unit as this space gets the most plugged up, without realizing it, debris could be the biggest concern.  Turn the unit off by turning the thermostat to off position, spray with a hose with a nozzle sprayer to clear off buildup. Remember to turn the unit back on after cleaning it.

Inside, during your DIY AC Inspection, check the vents for proper air flow.  Use a small string or a piece of paper to compare the airflow at different spots in your home. A temperature probe ($30) or thermometer is handy to check the coolness of the air. Laser temperature probes such as the one shown are great for this. The air should be 20 degrees colder than the air going in at the return air (the big grills).

   

Next, go to your furnace room, check your furnace and coil. Does it look like the coil and the furnace were installed at the same time? Inspect the craftsmanship of the metal work and drain lines. Sloppy work is an indicator of other potential issues. Check for signs of water leakage on the floor and underneath the furnace. Water spilling out from underneath the coil is not normal and in any of these areas is not normal. Look at the big refrigerant line (on the coil – main outer cage- of the furnace at the top).  Just like the outside unit, this pipe should feel cold and should not have ice or frost on it. Turn the switch off at the furnace and open the blower door (typically bottom door). With a flashlight look at the squirrel cage (blower fan). If you dare carefully run your finger along one of the fan blades white glove test see how bad the buildup is, anything over 1/8 inch reduces air flow. They should be clean and free of debris. Our technicians should do the dirty work.

  

Proper Sizing

 

If you suspect that your central air is undersized for the AC unit already installed, there are somethings that you, as a homeowner, can check. Observe your home from the outside. Look for high sun exposure on the South and West sides of your home. Large trees will help to shade your home from the heat of the sun. Contemplate planting shade trees one or more if possible. If you have more than one story above ground this will increase your heat load. Older homes may have poor insulation. Large windows will let in and trap heat. High vaulted ceilings connected to upstairs areas can be an issue.

Take a rough measurement of the square footage of all above-ground floors, don’t include your garage and basement. Measure the width and length of your home multiply those numbers. A rough guide is 1 ton for every 500 square feet. Central air systems that are undersized or oversized will not work properly. You can find the size of your air conditioner by looking at the model number, usually under the main panel compartment. You should see one of the following numbers:

                24 = 2 tons

                30 = 2.5 tons

                36 = 3 tons

                42 = 3.5 tons

                48 = 4 tons

                60 = 5 tons

The ductwork is often an overlooked part of your HVAC system however it is one of the most crucial considerations. Central air systems are designed for 400 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) per ton. If you have a 3-ton system your ductwork should be able to support 1200 CFM. Most homes have 6” round metal ducts going to the vents. These are designed to provide 85 CFM per vent. Count your vents and don’t include the basement ones. You should have a sufficient number of vents for your central air system.

The return air is where the air circulates back into the central air system. These are usually the bigger grills. Measure and record the dimensions of all of them and compare with the sizing chart below to get an idea of if you need more return air. Next, go into the furnace room and measure the return air drop(s). This is the vertical ductwork that connects to the blower compartment of your furnace. Refer to the sizing chart to see if it’s sufficient. 5 ton systems should have a base that allows the air to enter the furnace from the bottom or have return air ducts on both sides entering the blower compartment.

If you suspect that your central air system has some issues or isn’t sized properly contact the professionals at Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air 802-294-2757. Our technicians have the newest tools of the trade and know how to use them. They are experts at diagnosing problems that may not be apparent to the naked eye.

Utah HVAC Construction

As a builder, you know the importance of hiring reliable contractors. Companies that delay your project cost you money. Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air has been in business for over 12 years. In that time we have built a strong reputation for service you can count on. We want to be the Utah HVAC construction company you go to when you need it done right the first time. We specialize in the installation of HVAC equipment in condominiums, duplexes, apartments and custom homes. You can expect the HVAC on your build to be completed on schedule and even ahead of schedule.

Design

In the design stage, we thoroughly put together all the pieces. The Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air will evaluate your building plans and map out a custom HVAC system specific to your needs. The system will be designed to maximize the efficiency of the building. A Manual J (HVAC Design) will be performed in order to determine the HVAC system requirements.  This process calculates room by room heating and cooling requirements. It is a crucial step and one that should be done before any ground is broken. The new construction HVAC experts at Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air can even help you with the Manual J for your building.

Installationair duct cleaning in Salt Lake City

A proper installation is crucial to the functionality of any HVAC system. There are thousands of connections which should only be attempted by experienced professionals. An improperly installed HVAC system will be inefficient and break down prematurely. Our new construction crew installs HVAC equipment according to State and local codes. Why take chances? Humphrey Plumbing Heating and Air guarantees the work of our installers and technicians. Go with the proven experts.

Quality

We have installed thousands of furnaces and air conditioners in the Salt Lake City metro area. We have a department that only does new construction jobs.  Let our experience with new construction HVAC in Utah guide you through this complicated part of your build. Our team has the experience to help you with your project. Call us today to speak with a new construction representative.

Email your plans to callhumphey@live.com

Multi family HVAC Construction   New Construction HVAC Utah  Custom home HVAC